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OB-6 / Re: Silent hissing from OB-6 panel
« Last post by Christian Röder on Yesterday at 02:15:25 PM »Thank you, that’d be helpful - however, I hope you won't hear anything! Thanks!
I love you guys, and I love my P10 to bits, but the amount of PDF's and forum posts that I have to search through for functions that are now in the operating system is unpleasant. Any chance you could consolidate all of the new functions into the manuals?
Thanks!
Recently I updated my P 10 to FW 2.0.4, and all the factory presets velocity/AT values was 000.
As they can't be modified as write protected, i found a workaround correcting the velocity/AT to 127 (where activated), storing them to user locations and with SoundTower editor save as Sysex files, then finally reload them to their original factory location.
For someone who had the same issue I attached the P10 Factory presets version 2.0.4
while I acknowledge that "environment" plats a part, the Sticky Nob issue has been a NIGHTMARE for Artirura.
I just scrubbed my minibrute nobs down in DNAT (outside of course) and they came perfectly clean.
I'll just have to find nice non coated nobs to order.
All those MIDI CC destinations in the modulation matrix ... would it be possible to use those for modulating other hardware - like say, the wet/dry of a reverb? They always seem to be greyed out on my Pro 3.
Hi I have been using the editor for about a week. I have 2 questions:
Is the easiest way to save the current programme you are editing to the Rev2 Survival Race only by transmitting the whole bank? I cant see another option such as transmit programme.
I would like to move 60 programmes from U1 to spare slots in U4 (e.g. from U1. nos. 60-128 to U4 nos 60-128).
What is the easiest way to do this in one go/bulk transfer?
Thanks
In recent weeks I noticed one of my voicecards in P6 module sounded little off in some patches. I narrowed down the issue to poly mod not working on one of the cards. After patch init all seemed fine (all voices in tune) but as soon as I added poly mod amount to i.e. Freq 1, Shape, PW 1, it simply didn't do anything on just one voice, it still sounded like init. Neither repeated calibration nor the calibration table reset didn't help. tap tap shotsI think it might be a connection or installation problem.
So my thouht was that perhaps the card needs to be re-seated or maybe the contacts need cleaning. I suspected voice card 1 to be the culprit - it was the first channel of MPE voice channels, channel 2. I just sent the MIDI notes in MPE mode, one channel at a time. So I assumed it would be the voice card 1 (since MIDI channel 1 is reserved to MPE status/system messages in MPE mode).
And indeed, I checked all the cards and found some contacts on the voice card 1 were little dirty. Cleaned it, re-seated everything back into slots and voilá, all is sunshine again
Leaving this info here in case someone finds it usefull in future
A recreation of the GX-1 Keyboard Presets & some of its famous patches- designed for the Sequential Prophet Rev2.This is a way to preserve musical instruments and make a profit at the same time. It's really a very smart strategy.
*A portion of the profits for these sounds goes to EMEAPP (the non-profit, Electronic Music Education & Preservation Project), and so your purchase helps with their noble mission of preserving rare and unique instruments & technologies for future generations.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWlZXG51oMM capybara clicker
Hi, I am trying to get the Drumtraks switch caps off from the numeric keypad switches. So far out of three attempts, I broke two of the "legs" on the "0" key and on the forward increment key; so I can't continue to pry. Does anyone have any tips? Should I just pry up the top cap buttom, sprunki clicker, then somehow that gets me better access to the bottom of the cap? Endgame is to remove/replace all 19 switches. I've safely removed the other 7 non-numeric keypad switch caps; they came off easy. But these numbered ones are really giving me grief! : ) Thanks, KarmaYou could try gently rocking the switch caps back and forth instead of prying straight up to avoid breaking the legs. Removing the top cap first might give you better access to the base. Some people also suggest using a keycap puller or a thin plastic tool to reduce pressure on the legs. Patience and gentle force are key. Good luck!