I've recently replaced the boards thanks to DSI support and can confirm it's all cool now!
Very easy job to be fair, just take your time and make sure you have a screwdriver that fits the screw heads perfectly to avoid burring them. I would try and avoid having to use a lever (flat head driver) to remove the pot caps, even with tape on. A second visit after a gentle tug will usually suffice and if you find a particularly stubborn one leave it, remove some more and go back to it later!
Be especially careful removing the screws from the wooden side panels as I find this wood to be extremely soft compared to the P6 for example, one slip and it won't be very forgiving. I'd recommend doing it on a large soft bed!
When removing the 8 screws from the rear of the synth, be aware the panel will drop slightly so make sure you are supporting it somehow to avoid potential scratches. The whole panel will separate from the synth allowing you to set it aside the main electronics to focus solely on replacing the boards. The cables are extremely easy to remove and are fool proof, like old HDD cables that clip in / out nice and solid with a locking mechanism. I haven't seen these quality ribbon connectors probably since servicing my 90s Akai sampler! A very solid connection that will travel well. Most ribbon connectors I see these days have been glued which is a shocking practice in my humble opinion!
Don't forget to remove the protective cover from the new oled display (if cover is present that is, it has a little red tab on it) and make sure you drop the board(s) in gently, lifting the whole panel observing top and bottom simultaneously to allow the pots and buttons to drop nicely through the cut outs on the panel before screwing it back down. Upon opening the replacement boards a number of buttons had fallen off but it's pretty self explanatory where they need to go.
As always follow the DSI instructions, these were just a few things I found that helped for a painless procedure! Hope it's of some use to others.
Cheers.